The cultural diversity of Transylvania is reflected in the culinary culture of the region, which has been shaped by extremely varied influences, diverse ethnic groups, and their eventful histories. An exciting example of this is a flat, yeast cake called hanklich.
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The food cultures of 
Transylvania
deu. Siebenbürgen, deu. Transsylvanien, deu. Transsilvanien, ron. Transilvania, ron. Ardeal

Transylvania is a historical landscape in modern Romania. It is situated in the center of the country and is populated by about 6.8 million people. The major city of Transylvania is Cluj-Napoca. German-speaking minorities used to live in Transylvania.

 are characterized by their richness and diversity. A plethora of food cultures reflects the numerous ethnic groups that lived and live in Transylvania, and their national and cultural backgrounds. This richness is based on the long tradition of cultural exchange that in food culture as much as in other spheres of life. Further influences were introduced through the centuries due to the changing political affiliations of this region in the 
Carpathians
srp. Karpati, hun. Kárpátok, ron. Carpați, ukr. Karpaty, ces. Karpaty, pol. Karpaty, slk. Karpaty, deu. Karpathen, deu. Karpatenbogen, deu. Karpaten

The Carpathians are european High mountains that enclose the Hungarian lowlands, the so-called Carpathian Arc. It extends to Austria, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Serbia. The main parts of the Carpathian Arc are in Poland, Slovakia, Ukraine and Romania. Geographically the Carpathians have the same origin as the Alps.

. For example, Romanian eating habits brought with them Turkish and Greek dishes such as sarmale, a kind of cabbage roll. When it came to pastries, Transylvanian Saxons and the people of Hungary seem to have taken their lead from 
Wien
eng. Vienna

Vienna is the federal capital and the political, cultural and economic center of Austria. Around 1.9 million people live in the city alone, which is one-fifth of the country's population, and as many as one-third of all Austrians live in the metropolitan area. Historically, Vienna is particularly important as the capital and by far the most important residential city of the former Habsburg monarchy.

, bringing  striezel striezel A plaited sweet bread similar to the Swiss zopf or challah. faumrollen faumrollen Cream horns. , and  Linzertorte Linzertorte An Austrian pastry flan made with ground hazelnuts and redcurrant jam with a distinctive lattice top.  into Transylvanian cuisine.
One of the oldest pastries made by the Transylvanian Saxons is a yeast cake with an egg custard topping known as hanklich. It is served in countless regional variations for christenings and weddings as well as at Christian festivals throughout the year – Easter, Whitsun, and Christmas. Hanklich is perhaps the epitome of Transylvanian Saxon baking culture, and was always baked on the Friday before the celebration in the large oven that was to be found on every country estate in Transylvania.
The name of this flat cake is as old as the recipe itself, although a convincing explanation for its etymology is yet to be found. The link to “handy,” as in “easy to handle” on account of its traditionally small size, seems unlikely. The oldest written reference comes from 
Brașov
deu. Kronstadt, deu. Krunen, lat. Corona, deu. Cronstadt, deu. Stephanopolis, ron. Orașul Stalin, hun. Brassó

Brașov is located in the historical region of Transylvania in the center of Romania and is a large city with almost 250,000 inhabitants. Brașov was one of the settlement centers of the Transylvanian Saxons.

 1541, where a “hantlich” is included in a list of bread types. Over the centuries the references become more frequent and the role played by this celebratory flat cake in ritualized proceedings becomes increasingly clear. In 1621 the congregation in the village of
Șieu
deu. Schogen, hun. Nagysajó, deu. Großschogen, eng. Şieu

Şieu (german: Schogen) is a village on the banks of the river of the same name in Transylvania.

was obliged to present the Protestant pastor with “Klotsch und Hanklich” at Easter in a solemn ceremony. Klotsch was kolatsche, a slightly simpler yeast pastry. In 1750, around 130 years later, in 
Pianu de Jos
deu. Deutsch-Pien, deu. Pien

Pianu de Jos is a village in Transylvania and belongs to the Pianu commune. It is located on the bank of the river of the same name.

 in the 
Secașelor highlands
ron. Podișul Secașelor, deu. Zekesch-Hochland

The Secașelor highlands are described by the catchment area of the two Zekesh rivers. It extends in the Romanian counties of Alba and Sibiu. In its centre it is dominated by forests at the edges of pasture and steppe areas.

, the gift to be presented to the local school rector by the community on the occasion of his marriage was specified – it was a hanklich. This flat cake was so popular that it was even used as a unit of currency in certain situations. For example, the archives of the city of Kronstadt note: “In the year 1603 […] inflation was so high […], that […] a dry hanklich was given in exchange for a piece of arable land.”
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The ingredients for the hanklich may have changed with the generations, but the basic elements – a yeast dough with a topping “smeared” over it (geschmiersel) – are still the same today. Nor has its popularity diminished: the Romanian population of south Transylvania continued to bake hanklich even after the resettlement of the Saxons. The Romanians call the flat cake henkliş or henkleş.
This popularity is also evident from the innumerable recipes that have been baked since the 18th century and continue to be made today: variants with cream and semolina, plum, apple, pumpkin, onion, cinnamon, pork crackling, and many more.
However, the oldest and most common form of hanklich is a cake made with eggs, also called egg hanklich or ochenhunklich (in the Alzen region). This variant exists in a simple or “folded” puff pastry form. The recipe for “hanklich topped with egg custard” – subtitled “a Saxon cake”– can also be found in what was once the most popular cookbook among Transylvanian women, Christine Schuster’s Küche und Haushalt (1904):
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“Make a poolish1 using 50 g yeast, 1 litre milk, 6 eggs, 180 g butter, a pinch of salt and as much flour as you need […] Knead the resulting yeast dough thoroughly until it starts to form bubbles and separates easily from your hands and from the basin; knock back the dough, sprinkle with flour, and let it rise.

Spread a clean tablecloth over a table, sprinkle it with flour, and flatten the risen dough, starting from the centre and working in all four directions, until it is ½ cm thick […] Then pour over the egg custard (see below) and spread it out so that it covers the dough in a layer as thick as a piece of straw. Draw your forefinger and your middle finger across the egg custard to create lines, dividing the whole into 18–20 cm squares: the dough will be visible along these lines. Using a very hot knife, cut along the lines […] Lift each individual square onto a greased piece of baking paper of the same size (two people will be required for this task, to avoid pulling the hanklich out of shape and so that the custard does not run off) and bake it in the oven. The hanklich squares should be baked in a pre-heated oven for about 10 minutes, until the egg custard is a golden yellow and the underside of the dough is properly cooked but still white.

The egg custard used in the hanklich is a cream made from eggs and fat in equal quantities. For the amount of dough above you will need about 20 medium-sized eggs, 475 g butter, and 500 ml bacon fat. […] Strain the fat and add it to the butter, allowing both to become hot; meanwhile heat the eggs in an earthenware pot, then add the simmering fat, a spoonful at a time, stirring continuously, until the mixture begins to thicken.” 

“Folded hanklich” is the ultimate wedding and celebration cake:

“Prepare the dough, as described above, and when it has risen, roll it out on the floured cloth. Brush warm, melted butter onto a square in the middle [of the surface] of the dough, then cut a square out of [another part of] the dough and place it on the original square, brushing the surface with butter again, and continue until the there are about nine sheets of dough stacked on top of each other. Stretch the final sheet out a little so that it covers the sides of the stack. Then lift the folded dough onto a floured board, cover it carefully with a cloth and let it rest in a cool place for an hour. […] This recipe should make about 16–20 pieces.”

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The detailed description of how to bake hanklich reveals an important social aspect of making this cake. Several people were usually involved in making it, depending on how many cakes were needed, for example, for the wedding breakfast. The activity was only cost-efficient if the cakes were baked in bulk, since it was labour-intensive and a large quantity of fuel was needed to heat the ovens in the large bakehouses that were an essential part of any country estate until well into the 20th century.
The traditional method for spreading the egg custard onto the dough also called for many nimble hands. The aim was to “pile up” alternate quantities of the egg mixture and the hot, “browned” butter directly on the surface of the dough and promptly combine the ingredients into a custard that would be smeared over the whole of the table surface until the creamy mixture thickened and there was no longer a risk that the custard at the edge of the hanklich could run over the edge of the table. Usually a whole day would be dedicated to baking hanklich. The “grand bake,” in which everyone in the wider family and sometimes even the neighbourhood joined forces, always took place on the Friday before the feast day. Quite frequently the grand hanklich bake was the focus of festivities and ritualized customs.
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Finally, it is worth briefly mentioning the delivery of the “bridal hanklich” in 
Alțâna
deu. Alzen, hun. Alcina, ron. Alțîna

Alțâna (german: Alzen) is a municipality in Romania, first documented in 1291. Alzen is located in Transylvania (historically: "Siebenbürgen") in the Harbach Valley (romanian: Valea Hârtibaciului; german: Harbachtal). Since its foundation, there was a small Jewish population. However, the Jewish cemetery was built over after the last Jewish families left the village.

 im 
Hârtibaciu Valley
hun. Hortobágy völgye, deu. Haferland

The Harbach Valley in Transylvania (Romania), also called Haferland, is crossed by the Harbach (Roman. Hârtibaciu), which gives it its name. It is divided into the upper and the lower Harbach valley. In the center lies the town of Agnita (Agnetheln).

: preindustrial village life in Saxon Translyvania was traditionally characterized by economic self-sufficiency and by endogamy, so that marrying within one’s own village was seen as socially desirable, and marriage to someone from another village created social stigma. When two extended families, or “friendships,” as the kinships were called, were united by the marriage of two of their members, it was also matter of ensuring “that no ‘friendship’ sought to rise above the other”.2 
As a “warning against and discouragement from such behaviour”3, short texts (“sayings”) were composed on the occasion of the grand bake, which took place separately within each friendship, in the respective houses of the bride’s and bridegroom’s parents, on the Friday before the wedding. These targeted the people “from the other side, who had collected with the bridegroom for the grand bake”.4 Their physical attributes, social standing, and especially their moral weaknesses would be addressed in an ironic and affectionate way, but sometimes also frankly and crudely. The texts were written on paper ribbons, referred to in dialect as stropp or strap (straps or strips), and taken to the house of the bridegroom’s parents together with the bridal hanklich where they were presented to a woman designated for this purpose. The female relatives who had gathered in the bridegroom’s house also prepared “sayings” on white paper ribbons. In this way they held a mocking yet cheerful “village court”.5
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Following the delivery of the “beautiful hanklich,” accompanied by humorous discourse, which was meant to prepare the assembled groups for the imminent “fun,” and after the guests had been heartily fed, the decorative ribbons were exchanged, each one being pinned onto its addressee. Most of the messages, written in more or less successful rhymes, related to social status, for example, making fun of old maids as was common in village life, especially when the person in question had slim chances of getting married and was no longer considered attractive: “Wander through the roses/in meadows evergreen/until a man proposes/and then his wife you’ll be” (1984). A family member who was always impatient and impetuous was likened to an express train: “The express train comes in at such a lick/the head hits the oven lickety-split” (1979). A newlywed who had lost weight was addressed: “If your weight drops down too low/your husband will need indigo,” meaning copy paper (1975). Conceited behaviour or marital indiscretions, which could hardly remain hidden in a closed community, gossip and churlish manners were lampooned, as were greed and avarice. One family whose chicken had been killed by a neighbour’s dog was spitefully reminded of the disproportionately high compensation they had asked for, “because it was the breeding cockerel” (1980). At one at grand hanklich bake in the mid-1980s, when the women in the bride’s family decided to deliver the ribbons without any critical texts, they were reproached by the mother of the bridegroom: “Welcome, you dear ones!/Your writing’s left undone/Did you skive off school completely/Or are you just feeling sleepy?”
The customs surrounding the hanklich demonstrate how closely food cultures, in Transylvania as elsewhere, were associated with social and community life. Many such text ribbons, other memories recorded by former participants in the grand bake, and photographs of this activity, which was very important for the village community, are today preserved in the collection of the Siebenbürgisches Museum (Transylvanian Museum) in Gundelsheim. These, too, form part of Transylvanian culture.
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English translation: Kate Sotejeff-WilsonGwen Clayton

Siehe auch